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July - When Paris Calls Us

In English class Mr Miles said that July is called July because of Julius Caesar the Roman politician. After his death later generations named the month after him. And he added that August comes from Augustus Caesar, the first Roman emperor. Unfortunately almost no one in our class understood what that meant. Caesar and Augustus aren’t Superman or Batman. How could these idiots possibly know?

From today my dad is officially unemployed. Is there such a happy unemployed man on Earth? Seeing him happy makes me happy too. The rest. We’ll worry about that later.

While correcting the maths homework she’d given me last week Aunt Jeong-su asked ‘You managing alright?’ I said ‘Yes but Aunt. I’m always running out of time. Even in tests the clock chases me.’ And she said ‘That’s because your basics aren’t solid enough. Looks like I’ll have to give you even more homework.’ Argh!

In the afternoon I revised with Hee-jeong at her place. She has an unbelievable memory. She remembers perfectly everything she hears once in class. Why is it that I remember nothing?

Even though their only child is facing the final exam of his life Mum and Dad say tomorrow they’re going on a little drive to Ganghwa-do just the two of them. When I asked them to pay a bit of attention to me as well Dad said ‘Our educational philosophy at home is free-range grazing. I grew up like that too.’

I’ll have to check that with Grandma.

Grandma says she never raised Dad on ‘free-range grazing’. On the contrary she regrets spoiling and doting on him too much. There. That’s exactly what I thought.

For the first time in my life—short as it is—I’m studying seriously and sitting an exam seriously. I’ve summed up my current state with an adult expression.

Do everything you can and wait for heaven’s verdict.

- First day of exams -

  1. Korean. You reap what you sow.
  2. Social studies. It’s a ‘Ppagasari subject’. Do you really need a reason?
  3. Ethics. I studied hard. So why did I mess it up? Do I have a moral problem myself?

- Second day of exams -

  1. English. You saved me.
  2. Music. I absolutely don’t understand why music needs a written exam!

- Third day of exams -

  1. Science. You can’t be good at everything not even science. That’s called living within your means isn’t it?
  2. Chinese Characters. Easy. Thank you sir.

- Fourth day of exam -

  1. Maths. Aunt Jeong-su’s prophecy was wrong. I got 91.

I rang her to boast. ‘I got 91 in maths!’ She said if it really is 91 she’ll buy me a present. Whatever I want.

Today there’s neither maths nor English class. Aunt has gone on a trip to the East Coast with Uncle and Mr Jamie says he isn’t feeling well. In life you need days like this too.

Hee-jeong came over. We watched Dad draw up his travel plan. At first glancing at Mum he said he’d go ‘only’ for two weeks just to get some air. But Mum said ‘Europe is hard enough just to get to. You need at least a month don’t you?’ And Dad immediately changed it to a month.

Incheon – London – Brussels – Heidelberg – Frankfurt – Prague – Vienna – Venice – Rome – Munich – Zurich – Interlaken – Zurich – Barcelona – Madrid – Paris – Incheon

Seeing the route Mum said ‘Do you think you’re twenty?’ Dad laughed a bit embarrassed.

‘Or just do one or two cities. One month. Or two.’

‘Two months? Really?’ Dad’s eyes almost popped out. ‘And the budget?’

‘With the severance pay maybe?’

‘Mum and me?’ I slipped in in a nasal voice.

‘You—when you grow up you’ll earn your own and go by yourself.’

Since they came back from Ganghwa-do last week Mum has changed. She’s far too kind to Dad. Something must’ve happened there.

Dad says he’ll ‘rethink’ the European itinerary from scratch. Disaster. At this rate I’ll spend the whole holiday scraping the floor of my room. Dad in Europe Mum at work and me alone on a ‘stay-at-home holiday’!

I looked for ways to attach myself to the Europe trip but the odds are ridiculous.

  1. Method 1. Hunger strike (15% chance. If I fast ten days 70%)
  2. Method 2. Mobilise my network (Grandad Grandma Aunt Jeong-su etc.) to pressure Mum (10%)
  3. Method 3. Hide in Dad’s suitcase (5%)

I can’t find a ‘reasonable’ solution. Red alert!

In the afternoon Hee-jeong called. She told me to bring Choco Pies and milk hide them in my bag so her mum wouldn’t see and ask no questions. I did exactly as she said. I can do anything anything for Hee-jeong. Love needs no reason.

When I arrived Hee-jeong was on an unlimited hunger strike! She refuses to go to English camp during the holidays. She says she went last year it was rubbish and it didn’t even help her English. Instead she’s demanding a trip to Europe. Wow. She’s got guts.

When I handed her the Choco Pies and milk she smiled very softly. I thought my breath would stop.

Hee-jeong says tonight her dad will eventually give in. And she told me to persuade Mum and Dad too. I said it’s not that simple at my place. And she said ‘Don’t you want to go to Paris with me?’

Even if I have to fast ten days I have to go to Paris with Hee-jeong. Yes. From tomorrow hunger strike. Tonight I’ll eat a lot just this once.

Aunt Jeong-su’s prophecy was right. Maths 87. I lost four points on short-answer questions.

I still haven’t started my hunger strike. Even if I fast no one at home will notice. That’s the problem.

Hee-jeong finally won. Thanks to my Choco Pies.

Hee-jeong’s mum called my mum’s travel agency. Early August Hee-jeong and her dad want to go to Paris. Flights and hotel could they look into it? She says she won’t come because she’s afraid of flying. My God. What’s so scary about a plane?

Dong-wan leaves for Mongolia at the start of the holidays. He’ll stay about two weeks with his mum’s family. Jong-gu is going to an English camp run by a university and Hye-seon too. The same camp as Jong-gu. Of course she hasn’t told her mum about Jong-gu. Obviously. Even I wouldn’t say that. It’d be a bit too shameless wouldn’t it?

After the last period we played a basketball match against Class 4. Today Dong-wan and Jong-gu were literally flying. We won by over ten points. Even the girls from Class 4 fell for Dong-wan. And Hye-seon is completely mad about Jong-gu.

I know. I know that look of people in love…

Dad’s European plan is out. A whole month in Paris then off to Rome and another month there before coming back. Mum says we should pass through Milan and Florence between Paris and Rome. Dad said ‘Oh really?’ and Mum scolded him for not studying the trip enough.

And what about me? Why does nobody see me?

At this rate it might really happen. My dad, Hee-jeong’s dad and Hee-jeong going to Paris alone. The situation is heading for disaster.

It’s peak season. No hotels no flights. Good. Petrol is shooting up and they say Europe’s in economic crisis. What trip to Europe honestly. And I don’t understand how Hee-jeong’s dad can leave his clinic closed for ten days. What about his patients? A responsible doctor shouldn’t do that.

Fine. Hee-jeong’s dad’s patients can probably endure toothache for ten days. Doctors are human too. They need holidays don’t they?

Mum finally gave her permission. I can go to Paris with Dad. Hee-jeong is so happy she doesn’t know what to do. The four of us are going. My dad, Hee-jeong’s dad, Hee-jeong and me!

But finding flights and a hotel is like catching a star in the sky. Disaster. Even Dad is starting to feel the danger. Petrol rising endlessly the EU in crisis and yet still so many people want to go to Europe. I recommend they all go to Jeju instead!

After maths and English at Aunt Jeong-su’s Hee-jeong and I ate kalguksu Aunt had made. Uncle listened to our story and said ‘Then rent a studio or a flat in Paris.’

‘A flat?’ Hee-jeong and I asked at the same time.

‘Yes. Studio flat. It’s all the same.’

‘But how do you rent?’

‘In France the summer break start from June. Korean students rent out their studio or flat during summer. One month if it’s short two or three if it’s long. You rent a one-bed or two-bed. Or two studios.’

‘Really?!’ I shouted.

‘Hey Heo Byeok! Calm down!’ Aunt laughed.

Uncle rang my dad. My dad rang Hee-jeong’s dad. Everyone said yes. Dad started rummaging like a madman through a Korean-students-in-France community site Uncle gave him. He sent twelve emails and made over twenty calls. Dad grumbled that students never answer. Are they in class? Sometimes when someone did answer a French woman said ‘Bonjour’ and went on in French. Dad let me listen. I know it for sure. Every time we couldn’t say a single word and hung up.

Result. Impossible to find anyone willing to rent just for August. Dad says. ‘Let’s wait a bit.’ Wait for what exactly?

Mum managed somehow to find four plane tickets. Depart for Paris on 1 August return on 12 August. And it’s a direct flight. In peak season. Mum really made a sacrifice.

It reassures me. I’m probably not a child picked up off the street.

Among the emails sent to Paris two promising addresses still haven’t replied. We’re betting everything on them. Well. Everyone except Dad. Dad says if he can’t find accommodation he’ll go alone in September off-season quietly.

I seriously wonder if he’s really my father!

Jong-gu is depressed. What’s going on? Even when Dong-wan talks to him he barely answers. His eyes are red. In my head I started spinning all kinds of scenarios…

Maybe Jong-gu’s dad isn’t just a policeman but a spy. A police-spy. A sleeper agent like in the films. He’s infiltrated the police and feeds secret information to an enemy country. And his mum? Yes. She must’ve been a spy too at first. A spy doesn’t marry a woman who isn’t a spy. A spy couple! But then maybe she forgot her mission because of the big salary of the police chief and plunged into the pleasures of spending. Conflict in the marriage turned violent. And in all that the dad took it out on Jong-gu’s big brother. Because he can’t complain to anyone. If he reports to his superiors he could be killed for incompetence. If he reports to the police they’ll laugh at him. ‘It’s not April Fool’s!’. And besides he himself is police. Who would he complain to? So the big brother fled the violence and the spy parents. But he can’t betray them so he keeps quiet. And because he wants to see Jong-gu he sometimes sneaks to the school. That’s why Jong-gu is so sad. So I have a friend who’s the son of a spy? Should I report it? Or not?

I was imagining all this.

‘Jong-gu what’s wrong? Is there a problem?’ Dong-wan asked again.

‘I’ve got a swollen throat. I can’t talk…’ Jong-gu said painfully.

Grandma signed up for dance school. Grandad who dances like a plank of wood signed up too. He probably had no choice. In front of Grandma, Grandad can do nothing. It’s a family tradition.

Hee-jeong says my grandparents are ‘so stylish’ and wants to see the dance hall. I don’t even dance but just the word dance makes me nauseous. Poor Grandad. But that’s fate.

And from Paris. Still no news.

Holidays. And finally the Paris accommodation problem is solved. In the end Uncle saved the day.

Dad had been dialling Paris wrong all along. You have to drop the zero between the country code and the city code. He didn’t know just grumbled that ‘students never answer’. And Uncle also told us that the French woman saying ‘Bonjour’ was an automatic message. A system announcement! When I heard that I shivered. Can we really go to Paris with Dad?

The people renting to us are a Korean couple who’ve been students in France for seven years. They also have a little daughter. They’re spending all of August in Korea then going back to Paris. School starts again in September there apparently. What luck. Anyway we’re to meet them in Seoul on 28 July pay the rent and deposit and get the keys.

They sent photos by email. Three tiny bedrooms a tiny living-kitchen a tiny bathroom. And in the mail there was also a long list of instructions.

- Studio Instructions -

Address: 9 Rue Jacques Louvel Tessier, 75010 Paris, Apartment 101(Korean counting: 2nd floor). Métro Goncourt: 1-2 minutes on foot(Line 11). Métro République: 5-6 minutes on foot(Lines 3, 5, 8, 9, 11).

From CDG Airport: Take the Roissybus to Opéra, then take the metro to Goncourt, Exit 2. In front of the exit there is a phone shop. Walk down and you’ll see a café. About 30 metres to the left of the café is a large red gate.

Gate code: 3464(the entrance key will be given in Seoul).

Wi-Fi: NEUF_4EBC.

Wi-Fi password: gabyuff5ufbubduobxxe(Very long—please type it carefully without mistakes).

Be careful with the shower door: the glass can break.

Turn on the ventilation while showering(risk of mould).

Avoid splashing water on the wall; if it happens, wipe it dry.

Push the fridge door all the way closed; if you close it halfway, it may stay open.

Always double-check that the fridge is fully closed.

Clean the rice cooker pot only with a soft sponge.

Use the washing machine only during the day(neighbours complain at night).

If you make noise late at night, neighbours will complain.

Korean grocery Lucky Mart: near Bourse from Opéra(63 Rue Sainte-Anne).

Korean grocery OK Mart: 5 minutes on foot from Lucky Mart toward Opéra.

Products available: rice, kimchi, jokbal, sashimi, kimbap, vegetables, etc.

Around Goncourt live together French people, Black people, Chinese, Turks, Arabs and others. If you have racial prejudices, you cannot live here. Please keep this in mind. The neighbourhood is safe. Have a good trip!

I forwarded the email to Hee-jeong and ran to her place. On Google Maps we searched the address. When we entered it the big red gate appeared exactly like in the photos. With Street View we visited the area around the metro. We already felt as if we were in Paris.

That evening at home I started organising our itinerary using Dad’s European travel books. But the section on Paris was far too thin. There were tons of pages on England Germany Spain. Everything we don’t need. Why did Dad buy this book?

I ticked off one by one the places I wanted to go. Just that made my heart pound. But then Aunt rang and dumped a mountain of maths homework on me. And my excitement evaporated.

Aunt says maths homework comes before everything. Aaaah!

Hee-jeong’s dad put up a notice at the entrance to his clinic. Closed from 28 July to 15 August for ‘attendance at a dental conference in Europe’. What conference…

Once I finished the maths homework I went to Hee-jeong’s. Dong-wan came too. He doesn’t say it but I think he’d rather go to Paris than Mongolia. Who would choose a Mongolian desert over the Eiffel Tower and the Seine?

We hardly knew anything about Paris. So first we chose three films ‘set in Paris’. Uncle helped us pick. He seems to know far more than my dad.

- Movies -

  1. When Paris Calls You(Tomorrow we’ve decided to watch it together at Dong-wan’s.)
  2. French Kiss(Hee-jeong chose this one.)
  3. Amélie(I’ve seen it already but I decided to watch it again as revision.)

- Books -

  1. Places in Paris(Uncle said he’d lend it to Dad.)
  2. Thinking of Paris(This one too. Uncle said to give it to Dad. In the end he lent us nothing. He simply told us to go to the library and find books that suited our level. My uncle!)
  3. Various travel guides(Uncle added that the National Assembly Library had lots of travel books.)

Dad starts his stop-smoking programme today. Mum warned him. If he fails he hands back his sabbatical. She also said that if Dad smokes in Paris I’m to photograph him. She even promised a paparazzi fee. 10,000 won per photo.

By the time we get back I may have enough money to go independent.

At Dong-wan’s we watched When Paris Calls You. Disappointing. ‘Paris’ is in the title but Paris barely appears.

After the film as Uncle told us we went to the National Assembly Library. But they refused us entry. You need a letter of recommendation from the school head or a teacher-librarian. Excuse me. Aren’t we Korean citizens too? We don’t pay taxes yet but we will. This is outrageous. And we live nearby!

Hee-jeong asked ‘Doesn’t your mum’s agency have loads of travel guides?’ I said those are ‘office books’. You can’t borrow them. So we went to Kyobo. Every guide in the world was there.

When I got home Dad was watching Amélie. I was supposed to watch it tomorrow with Hee-jeong but I did my homework early.

I absolutely want to go to the Canal Saint-Martin.

I told Uncle we’d been turned away from the National Assembly Library. He said that was impossible. Well it happened.

Aunt said my maths foundations were gradually building and praised me. Today I also did English properly. When Mr Jamie heard I was going to Paris he was jealous. He said one day he absolutely wants to go. I told him. ‘Yes you should go one day sir.’ and he burst out laughing saying my English was getting better and better. I got praised twice in one day.

After lessons at Hee-jeong’s we watched Amélie. Impossible to tire of it. It’s a film that makes you happy every time. Hee-jeong says she wants to go to the Canal Saint-Martin where Amélie skips stones. We made a list of must-see places.

- Must-see in Paris -

  1. Eiffel Tower
  2. Louvre Museum
  3. Musée d’Orsay
  4. Canal Saint-Martin
  5. Musée de l’Orangerie
  6. Notre-Dame Cathedral
  7. Saint-Ouen flea market
  8. Rodin Museum
  9. Musée de Cluny
  10. Montmartre
  11. Walk from Île de la Cité to Boulevard Saint-Germain
  12. Centre Pompidou
  13. Arc de Triomphe
  14. Maritime Museum
  15. Walk around Le Marais
  16. Tuileries Garden

Our trip feels too short.

Tomorrow we were meant to watch French Kiss.

I looked up what ‘french kiss’ means. In Korean we call it. ‘a debate involving the exchange of tongues.’ Even if I die I will never do that. Even with Hee-jeong. No. Sorry.

Hee-jeong called in the morning to tell me to come watch French Kiss but I pretended I had the flu and didn’t go.

My nose feels itchy… as if it’s about to get longer.

Dong-wan left for Mongolia. Jong-gu and Hye-seon left for English camp. Grandad at dance school became ‘the champion of the body’. But not in a good sense. ‘champion of clumsiness’. Grandad, hang in there.

I told Hee-jeong we’d revise the travel plan at my place today. Because at my place there isn’t French Kiss DVD. And Dad meanwhile is preparing absolutely nothing. Watching us plan he laughed ‘You two are adorable playing at this.’ Then he said ‘You’ll be in Paris. What plan? Wake up and go wherever you fancy.’

I genuinely wonder if I should go to Paris with Dad.

‘Oh dear. My dad says exactly the same.’ Hee-jeong said.

Whatever. Fathers are supporting characters anyway. The stars of this trip are Hee-jeong and me.

Mum looked at our schedule and said it was too hard for my dad and Hee-jeong’s dad. At this rate they’ll collapse in two days. When I told Hee-jeong she said to come immediately to adjust the plan ‘just a tiny bit’. When I arrived she’d already put the French Kiss DVD in. Aaaah.

Her mum made homemade yoghurt. We ate it with spoons and let the film pull us in for two hours. French Kiss wasn’t a horror film but a romantic comedy. Thank goodness. There weren’t that many ‘tongue-exchange’ scenes. I’d worried for nothing.

After three films set in Paris I felt as if I’d been there several times. I even had the sensation there was no need to go in real life. It would save money too.

Back home Dad was reading Places in Paris. Seeing our schedule he must have had some inner shift.

Even though it was pouring we did a final check of the schedule at Hee-jeong’s in the evening. Her dad skimmed our plan diagonally and said ‘Well done.’ Then he said to my dad. ‘A little soju?’ And then even the mums joined in. The living room turned into a bar in seconds. From the start the objective had clearly been alcohol.

Hee-jeong’s dad’s clinic closes from tomorrow. He says it’s the first time in his life he’s taken a holiday this long. I felt a bit sorry for the dads.

Hee-jeong and I leafed through her brother’s Impressionist art book.

‘With the Impressionists I like the painters more than the paintings.’ Hee-jeong said.

What does that mean? I didn’t ask. I have to find the answer myself.

Mum and Dad were drunk. We left the car in the car park and went home by taxi.

The weather is bad. I’m uneasy. Dad paid the rent and deposit to the student couple and collected the keys. He gave one to Hee-jeong’s dad and kept the other. I’m worried but I’ll trust the two dads. They’re not going to lose both keys at the same time… are they? Why do men look so reliable at work and so alarming the moment they leave work? Mystery.

In the evening we packed. On Mum’s advice Dad and I packed light. Dad took only a small rucksack. A few clothes and toiletries. He also took Places in Paris. He seems to really like that book. And he took another book. The Island by Jean Grenier. Is he planning to go to the sea or something?

I called Hee-jeong. They’ll pack light too. Very good. Safe journey. You can’t travel with people who bring everything from gochu-jang to doen-jang can you?

I stopped by Hee-jeong’s in the morning and without thinking asked ‘Are you moving house today?’

‘See Mum! Byeok is asking if we’re moving!’ Hee-jeong shouted towards the kitchen.

I wasn’t joking. When I saw Hee-jeong’s dad’s luggage I honestly thought they were emigrating. A suitcase the size of an aircraft carrier, a big rucksack and a small handbag. Just looking at it made me dizzy.

Hee-jeong’s dad looks ready to set up a second household in France. Alert.

My mum called Hee-jeong’s mum and persuaded her to cut Hee-jeong’s dad’s luggage in half. She said ‘If we need something we’ll buy it there.’ But it didn’t work. Hee-jeong’s dad is a fervent believer in domestic products. That doesn’t mean he’s patriotic. He hates ‘Made in China’. China as ‘the world’s factory’.

‘With luggage that heavy you’ll lose the children.’ Mum said.

The final blow. Unanswerable.

Hee-jeong’s dad reduced his luggage to half of half. Phew. Hee-jeong was about to restart her hunger strike.

I finished all the maths homework assigned by cold Aunt Jeong-su. Tomorrow morning I have to go to her place with Hee-jeong for checking. She says she can’t ‘let us off’. We’re missing two weeks of maths. Mr Jamie told me to enjoy myself properly. He never gives homework. You just say what you want to say in the moment.

Early in the morning I went to greet Grandad and Grandma. Grandad gave Dad an envelope to help with travel expenses. Dad didn’t even show it to me. He just wiped his mouth. How much is inside? It doesn’t matter. In Paris I only have to photograph him every time he smokes. That money will inevitably become mine.

Grandma told me to listen to my father and come back safe. I had a moment of fog. Because at home Dad constantly tells Mum. ‘Don’t listen to what I say. Do what you want.’ I answered politely. ‘Yes.’ I had no choice. Right now even raindrops have to be handled carefully.

In the afternoon I went to greet Hee-jeong’s mum. She said ‘Byeok please take good care of our Hee-jeong.’ Hahahaha! That means she’s recognising me as a son-in-law right? I answered confidently. ‘Yes of course.’ Hee-jeong smiled. I smiled too. And when we smile her mum smiles too.

It’s already August. I’m happy.